Info about the This is a simple, easy way to take some basic dance pieces and turn them into a costume. You can create big bustles or little bustles. The usual practice is to put a larger bustle in the bag and a couple of smaller bustles in the front. This is a great technique if you want to introduce a little Victorian feel to your costume.
We are going to show you how to create a bustle in the back and a couple of smaller bustles in the front. In our sample, we are going to use a black skirt for the skirt underneath and a shorter, pink skirt for the bustles. We are using these colors to make it easier to see what we are doing.
Supplies:
Long circle skirt
Short circle skirt
Needle
Thread to match the bustle’
Scissors
Ruler
Tulle, if desired
Flowers or Bows, if desired
Directions:
Choosing materials
We are going to use a black skirt and shorter, pink skirt for our sample so it will be easier to see what we are doing. The shorter, pink skirt will be used for the bustle. However, you can use any combination of colors make the skirt and the bustle the same. You, of course, can choose any combination of colors of your choice. The skirt and bustle can be the same color or different colors.
We are going to be making a larger bustle in back and several smaller bustles in the front.
On our sample, we are using black thread against the pink material so that you can see the stitching but you will want to use thread that matches the colors of the bustles.
When you place the bustle on top of the other skirt, you need to remember that if you bring the bustle up, you want to make sure that someone’s butt does not show.
The first thing about the bustle is that it is usually in the back of the skirt. Consequently, the first step is to fold the skirt along back seam. Some skirts do not have a seam in the back, but have two seams on the sides. In that case, fold the skirt in half with those seams touching which will create a fold down the center of the back and one down the center of the front. Using those folds, you can find the center back. If you intend to create smaller bustles in the front, this would be a good time to mark the center fold for use when making those smaller bustles.
Creating a bustle is largely just ruching it up. To create the bustle, insert the needle from the inside of the skirt into the center fold at the back of the skirt. Weave that needle in and out along the line created by the fold. Keep sewing in and out until you get to the top of the skirt ending with the needle on the inside. It is very important that your stitch line is perpendicular to the waistband. You can mark a straight line with seamstress’ chalk or a piece of soap along that center back fold as a guide for the sewing. We, however, are going to simply sew along the fold.
If you are making small bustles next to each other, they need to be parallel to each other and the same length. To ensure that they are the same length, you can use a small ruler or you could take a small piece of cardboard and cut it to the length that you want for the bustle. You could then use it as a guide to make sure that the bustles are the same size. If you want smaller bustles next to each other, they need to be the same size.
In the case of our sample, we have sewn the thread in and out and then when we pull it tight, the material gathers and becomes a bustle. The tighter you pull the thread, the more gathers you have and the more pronounced the bustle.
There is a manufacturer’s tag on our sample. We are going to tie the end of the thread to that tag. It just makes that stitching and the bustle a little stronger. If you do not have a tag to tie it off to, then you can tie the thread to the waistband or just stitch back through the bunched up material of the bustle a few times and then tie it off. This creates an anchor for the whole thing.
When you start the stitching the bustle at the hem of the skirt, it usually creates a little piece of material that sticks out. Just tack that little piece inside so it cannot be seen. It also makes the bustle stronger.
Once you have finished sewing the large bustle in the back, flip the skirt over to the front and determine where you want to put the little bustles. Lay the skirt on a flat surface with the center back where you have the bustle as a back. If you have not marked the center fold when you found the center back, then now is the time to do it. Find the center of the front and mark the center front. Then divide and mark the front of the skirt in thirds. Depending on the size of the skirt, decide whether you want two or three bustles in the front. If you choose to have three bustles, then put the first one in the center and the other two on the lines that separate the skirt front in thirds. Either fold the skirt in each of those places where you would place the bustle and stitch up that line just like you did in the back only not making the bustle as big. However, you want to make sure to remember to mark the length of the stitch line for the bustles. If you have three bustles, you would want to make them a little smaller than if you had two bustles. Make sure to turn the little tab in the beginning to the inside of the skirt and anchor it down. Then create an anchor at the top.
Additionally, you can add a little tulle under the bustle to puff it out a little and give it more volume. Also, at the top of the bustles, you could put little flowers or bows on the outside of the skirt. (In one of our other chapters, we show how to make little flowers and bows.)
